Brenners Park-Hotel & Spa: A heritage hotel in Germany that pioneered the luxury wellness retreat

“Do you moisturise your nose a lot?” asked facialist Sabine Seitz at the start of the Aqua Organic Luxury Facial at Villa Stephanie Spa & Wellbeing, part of the storied Brenners Park-Hotel & Spa. The simple question segued into recommendations on how to look after my skin the natural way. She suggested one easy fix: I shouldn’t over-moisturise my T-zone to ensure my pores can breathe.

This sage advice is rooted in her genuine care and deep experience in the trade — Seitz has been doing treatments for 38 years at Brenners Park-Hotel & Spa, a historic luxury hotel in Baden-Baden, Germany. Renowned for its healing thermal waters, this well-heeled spa town is synonymous to the good life, so much so that the former US President Bill Clinton once remarked, “Baden-Baden is so nice you have to name it twice.”

Post-facial, I leave with a lighter feeling and armed with more intel — this time on which cafes to visit in Baden-Baden, which Seitz happily divulged (the classic Cafe Konig and the bohemian Cafe Lumen in the monastery in case you’re interested). This is a taste of what it’s like to stay at “Brenners”, as the regulars call it, a landmark property that has stood on the banks of River Oos overlooking the elegant Lichtentaler Allee for over 150 years. Not only is the hotel full of stories, but it’s filled with spirited conversation.

Once under the leadership of legendary hotelier Cesar Ritz, this grand hotel is now the principal property of Oetker Collection, the group behind ‘masterpiece hotels’ including Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc in Antibes and Le Bristol Paris, both of which were recently awarded three keys in the inaugural Michelin Hotels Guide.

“Wherever you go, Brenners is the best,” exclaimed Frank Sinatra in 1975, one of many esteemed guests who have graced its halls, a list that also includes members of the British Royal Family and the Obamas. And they’re certainly intent on keeping the standards sky-high with an extensive renovation ongoing in the main building when I visited in January, leaving only the adjoining Villa Stephanie Spa & Wellbeing and the Wintergarten Restaurant open to guests.

A GRAND LEGACY

The renovation is a key initiative of managing director Henning Matthiesen, who took the reins in January 2020 just before COVID-19 hit. He has wisely used the “downtime” to improve one of Europe’s most celebrated hotels, while also engaging his team called the “Brenners Family”. 

While the hospitality industry is experiencing a labour crunch exacerbated by post-pandemic revenge travel, Brenners continues to be staffed by more or less the same people. The pull of Brenners is so strong that current resident manager Caspar Wesener is a ‘boomerang’: He began his career here, worked in numerous other countries and decided to return when Brenners called. That in itself is a powerful testimonial to its enduring appeal.

A lot of the magic has to do with its location in the UNESCO Heritage Town of Baden-Baden, situated at the edge of the Black Forest. This charming, eminently walkable spa town has a long reputation as a place for healing with Roman baths existing from the third century AD.

When I visited in winter, I witnessed the verdant view transform into a snow-covered landscape overnight. Fringed with centuries-old trees, flush with cool mountain air and filled with the sound of gentle flowing water from the River Oos, you can’t help but dial down the pace and take a deep breath in.

“Well-being is the essence of Brenners. About 74 per cent of our guests are decision makers in politics, business and culture. Majority come from New York, Paris, and Dubai — they live hectic lives in crowded cities. They arrive here, open the windows and they only see the park… but you’re not in a remote destination,” says Wesener.

Most of the 105 rooms and the stylish dining venues overlook a purely natural scene, but the hotel is only a short stroll to restaurants, shops and cosmopolitan attractions including the Belle Epoque-style Kurhaus, which hosted the NATO Summit in 2009, and the Museum Frieder Burda designed by architect Richard Meier.

AN OUNCE OF PREVENTION

The glorious history and privileged setting lay the foundation for the hotel’s true purpose: To be the ultimate refuge to restore one’s well-being. Brenners is the first hotel in Germany to focus on the spa and wellness sector, and it continues to improve its offerings at Villa Stephanie Spa & Wellbeing, a standalone building dedicated to restoring the mental, emotional and physical health of guests.

Be it a private fitness session, a tailored nutritional programme or an Augustinus Bader treatment, you can find everything you need for an effective wellness retreat here. Those seeking ultimate relaxation will enjoy the Stephanie Spa Suites set within Villa Stephanie itself, providing easy access to the 500 sq m sauna, the Roman-style indoor pool or any of the other facilities in the 5,000 sq m spa complex. These corner suites also come equipped with a private sauna and steam room, as well as a handy digital detox feature where Wi-Fi and electronics are cut with the touch of the button.

The ace on their sleeve is Brenners Medical Care, which provides direct access to top doctors and specialists in a single venue. From holistic medicine to aesthetic services, it focuses on preventative healthcare programmes and specialist treatments delivered by world-class professionals. Case in point: Dr S. Marcus Beschnidt, an award-winning dentist who has 2,000 high-flying patients who come every year for a comprehensive consultation.

Medical care is so integral to the well-being offering at Brenners that you can get to the doctor’s office from your spa treatment without ever stepping foot outside. Better yet, you can avail of private consultations in your room, ensuring utmost privacy and discretion.

For all its medical talk, there’s nothing clinical about a wellness retreat at Brenners. There’s an indulgent layer, thanks to the classic interiors, old-school service and the sophisticated setting. With the consultations, treatments and recovery time, most guests stay for two weeks and bring their loved ones along. An annual check-up and family holiday in one? Well, that’s exactly the idea for the typical cash rich, time poor Brenners visitor.

Naturally, there are stratospheric expectations ahead of the hotel’s reopening at the end of 2024, especially from loyal guests like Lady Herme de Whyman Miro who first visited in 1937 and celebrated her 100th birthday at Brenners in 2019. While things are bound to change, one can hope that the romance of staying in this grande dame remains — a task that falls on the hands of the capable, long-serving team including Kleopatre, the 10-year old Burmese cat in residence.